Day 48: Rossport to Neys Provincial Park

Given yesterday's deluge that kept us 10m from our tents for nearly a hour before bed (no one was willing to risk a wet tent) we had a leisurely start to this morning - our regular 7am wakeup was a little delayed. And though the setting was spectacular, tents facing out to a sandy beach on Lake Superior, the day began with a thick layer of clouds and a chill that got into our bones. Oh well, the best way to get rid of that was to start biking, and the topography helped us out by giving us a big hill right out of camp. Team Early Risers got a head start while the slow-pokes finished packing, and after cresting the second piece of the climb, started getting cocky and claiming they'd be the first ones to the top. As they crested the third segment, the red stallion appeared behind them at a gallop, so Alan dashed ahead while Ginny stayed back to valiantly hold off the charge. Her attempt at trickery (oh gosh, your tire is flat!) failed and the stallion raced ahead. Alan kept glancing nervously into his rear-view mirror as he pushed ahead, but each time he looked, his lead had shrunk. He let out a cry of utter despair as, just short of he crest of the hill, Shane zoomed past. But when he reached the crest he saw it had been a futile race anyway, as there were two more hills to climb before the true top, and so the result was inevitable. A valiant effort, better luck next time.

Given our late start, the big hill and the cold wind blowing against us, we only reached Terrace Bay just before noon. Or I should say smelled it, because the stench of the pulp mill reached us long before we reached town. It was overpowering and we had to find shelter fast or risk death. Thus we dashed into the little bakery with even more delight than usual. An hour later (and tea/hot chocolate, cookies, fries, doughnuts and date squares later) we emerged warmed up and energized. We needed it...

While we had been hiding in the bakery, the wind had picked up, going from strong to nearly gale
force, whipping straight down from the north. Our easterly course should have lessened the blow had it not been for a large bay just outside of town that made to road detour 4km north. So we went head into it, and and endless 45min later rounded the turn to the east having survived blowing sand, being pushed backwards while pedaling in our lowest gears, and being pushed off the pavement by the gusts that would sneakily attack from the flank. But made it we did.

After that, everything else was pretty easy, the wind diminished a little, our course turned east further limiting its effect and the monster ridges gave way to rolling hills. But we'd lost too much time and realized we wouldn't make Marathon - our intended destination - in time.

Our map showed another park on the shore 20km before Marathon, but it appeared to be 10km down a side road and we weren't willing to make the detour. However, when we got to the turn, it turned out to be only 2km to another beautiful park on a gorgeous sandy beach. And to complete the feeling of being in paradise, the clouds finally blew away leaving only blue sky and sunshine! Snacks on the beach and a nice hot meal around a campfire gave a glorious finish to a tough but rewarding day. It was all worth it!


Distance: 88.70 km
Time on bikes: 5:39:37
Average speed: 15.6 km/h
Distance from Vancouver: 3826 km
Start time: 9:20 am
End time: 6:20 pm
Wind: North (extreme/strong 70% head, 30% tail)
Conditions: Overcast and cold!


Cheers
- The Warpotay Team

Location:Neys Provincial Park, ON